LUWIN traditional Chinese herbal face cream bottle displayed on a neutral textured linen cloth next to dried botanicals and medicinal roots.

Acne Treatment in the UK: What Modern Skincare Can Learn From an Older View of Skin Health

Jaye Tan

A recent report on access to acne treatment in the UK raises a bigger question: when we talk about treating acne, are we looking only at the condition itself, or are we thinking about skin health more broadly?

For thousands of years, traditional Chinese medicine has approached health through a different lens.

Rather than looking at an individual symptom entirely in isolation, traditional Chinese medicine has historically placed importance on ideas of balance, individual constitution and the relationship between different aspects of health and wellbeing.

The World Health Organization (WHO) describes traditional medicine as encompassing knowledge, practices and philosophies that have developed across different historical and cultural contexts, with traditional approaches often placing emphasis on holistic and personalised care.
(Source: World Health Organization, Traditional, Complementary and Integrative Medicine.)

This does not mean that traditional Chinese medicine replaces modern dermatology or evidence based medical treatment. It does, however, offer an interesting perspective on a question that remains highly relevant today:

Super close-up on the cheek and skin texture of a model, overlayed with gold botanical art. Arranged ingredients include medicinal mushrooms, lotus pods, and crystals. Text reads: 'Authentic & Nourished' and 'Skin Clarity.' The phrase 'Balance within, radiance without.' is in a top-right circle.

What does it really mean to care for our skin?

That question feels particularly timely following a recent report in The Times examining access to acne treatment in the UK.
(Source: The Times, "Clear skin becomes a privilege as NHS restricts free acne drug", 15 August 2026.)

The changing conversation around acne treatment in the UK

The Times report highlighted a decline in NHS prescriptions for isotretinoin, commonly known by the brand name Roaccutane, alongside long waits for dermatology appointments and an increasing number of people seeking treatment privately. It also shared the experiences of people who had lived with acne for years and described the impact that the condition had on their confidence and quality of life.

The article raises important questions about access.

For someone living with persistent or severe acne, waiting months for specialist care can feel like a very long time, particularly when the condition is affecting their confidence, social life or emotional wellbeing.

At the same time, isotretinoin is not simply another skincare product. It is a prescription medicine used for severe acne in appropriate circumstances and carries important safety considerations.

Current NICE guidance recommends considering oral isotretinoin for people over 12 with severe acne that has not responded adequately to standard treatment, including systemic antibiotics and topical therapy. NICE also recommends appropriate monitoring and consideration of psychological wellbeing when isotretinoin is being considered or used.

(Source: NICE, Acne vulgaris: management (NG198), including recommendations updated April 2026. )

That distinction matters.

Acne treatment and skincare are not the same thing, and they shouldn't be presented as though they are.

A central tall, white skincare bottle labeled "LUWIN" (detailed text below) stands on a light textured surface, surrounded by natural elements. To the left, a green jade mortar and pestle holds small green sprouts. Behind it, a whole Reishi mushroom sits on a mossy mound, flanked by dried medicinal roots. The central bottle is framed by two large, vibrant green Ginkgo Biloba leaves and is connected to a cluster of small white fungi. Golden, sparkling light trails weave through the scene. On the right, a large, heart-shaped rose quartz gua sha tool catches the light. At the front right, a small bowl holds dried lotus seeds, next to which are fresh Goji berries and a small pink lotus petal. The background features delicate, gold-line illustrations of Ginkgo leaves and Lotus flowers. Dark, elegant text (detailed below) is positioned in the upper left and upper right.

Acne is more than what we see on the skin

One of the most striking aspects of the Times article is not simply the discussion about prescriptions.

It is the personal stories.

People described feeling uncomfortable leaving the house without makeup, losing confidence and feeling that their skin had affected their lives for years.

This isn't surprising.

Acne is a visible condition, which means that unlike many health concerns, it can become something people feel they are constantly presenting to the world.

A person may think about their skin before taking a photograph.

Before meeting someone new.

Before going to work.

Before going to university.

Sometimes the physical condition and the emotional experience become difficult to separate.

NICE's own guidance recognises this connection. It recommends considering referral to specialist dermatological care where acne is contributing to persistent psychological distress or a mental health disorder.

So when we talk about successful acne treatment, it is worth remembering that the outcome isn't necessarily just a clearer complexion.

For the person experiencing it, it may also mean feeling comfortable in their own skin again.

Young woman applying topical blemish cream to acne-prone skin texture for an acne treatment and skincare guide.

There isn't one answer to acne

It is tempting for the skincare industry to talk about acne as though there is one universal solution.

There isn't.

Acne can vary considerably in severity and presentation, and treatment needs to take the individual into account.

NICE recommends different treatment approaches depending on the severity of acne and the individual's circumstances, including topical treatments and, where appropriate, oral medicines. If acne doesn't respond adequately to initial treatment, further treatment or referral may be considered.

For people experiencing persistent or severe acne, professional medical advice is important.

That might mean speaking to a GP, pharmacist, dermatologist or another appropriately qualified healthcare professional.

Skincare has a place too, but it should be understood for what it is.

A skincare routine can support the everyday care and appearance of the skin. It isn't a substitute for medical treatment when medical treatment is needed.

We think this distinction is important because good skincare marketing should help people make informed decisions, rather than making every skin concern sound as though it can be solved by buying another product.

a model with dewy skin holding LUWIN face cream bottle with a smile on face

What does "skin health" actually mean?

Perhaps this is where the conversation becomes more interesting.

If we define skin health simply as having perfectly clear skin, we create a very narrow definition of what healthy skin looks like.

Real skin has texture.

It changes with age, hormones, environment, stress and lifestyle.

It can experience periods of acne, dryness, sensitivity or other concerns.

And two people can have completely different skin while both having skin that is healthy for them.

This is one reason we prefer to think about skincare as a longer-term relationship with your skin rather than a constant search for perfection.

The goal isn't necessarily to have flawless skin.

It is to understand your skin, care for it consistently and make informed choices about what it needs.

An older perspective on an increasingly modern industry

This is where our TCM heritage becomes relevant.

Traditional Chinese Medicine is a complex system with its own history, terminology and theories. It should not be reduced to a few fashionable ingredients or presented as a shortcut to modern skincare.

One aspect that has particularly influenced our thinking is its broader emphasis on balance, individuality and the relationship between health and wellbeing.

The WHO's current work on traditional medicine similarly emphasises the importance of evidence, safety, quality and people-centred care when traditional approaches are incorporated into contemporary health systems.

For us, this creates an interesting meeting point.

Traditional knowledge can give us a different perspective.

Modern science gives us different tools.

They don't necessarily have to be positioned as opposites.

LUWIN was born from an interest in this intersection: the heritage and philosophy of Traditional Chinese Medicine combined with the possibilities of modern skincare formulation. (Chinese Herbal Science: The Rise of C Beauty on the Global Stage – LUWIN Skincare UK)

Our approach isn't to suggest that one tradition has all the answers.

It is to remain curious about both.

Perhaps skincare needs a broader definition of progress

The current conversation about acne treatment in the UK is ultimately about much more than one medication.

It is about access to care.

It is about the experience of living with a visible skin condition.

It is about how quickly people can receive appropriate support.

And it is about how seriously we take the relationship between skin and wellbeing.

Modern dermatology has an essential role in diagnosing and treating acne, particularly when the condition is severe or persistent.

Skincare has its own role in everyday skin care.

And traditional approaches such as TCM offer another historical perspective on the idea of caring for the person rather than viewing individual symptoms completely in isolation.

Perhaps the future of skincare isn't about choosing between old and new.

Perhaps it is about being curious enough to learn from both.

A note from LUWIN

We believe skincare should be approached with curiosity, care and respect for the individual.

Our products are inspired by Traditional Chinese Medicine heritage, but we do not position skincare as a replacement for professional medical treatment.

If you are experiencing persistent, severe or distressing acne, we encourage you to seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional.

This article is intended for general education and is not medical advice.